Monday, May 30, 2011

The Belarusian "stronghold" crumbles

A couple of days ago I came across an interesting account of the recent economic woes in Belarus (in English, and Russian). The country is facing a multitude of shortages, including of staples, as well as a currency crisis and a run on virtually everything that can be exchanged. Here is one of the more evocative quotes from a Bloomberg article about the economic collapse:
"The price of children’s diapers has “gone completely insane” in Minsk, said Natalia, a 24-year-old mother also queuing outside the refrigerator store. “I used to buy a pack for 69,000 rubles, now they cost 140,000,” or almost half the 343,260-ruble monthly child benefit paid by the government, she said."
 What's interesting about the first article I linked is the personal perspective of what its like to live in a country that has barely (if at all) moved past the Soviet times, and what one can do to survive amidst the economic chaos. Here's a  teaser:
"A smart Belarusian buys a ticket for Irkutsk in Minsk, paying 1,430,000 rubles (worth 290 dollars at the new exchange rate). The trip lasts four days and ends in the middle of nowhere, so the somber Belarusian boards a commuter train to Smolensk where he turns in his train ticket and gets a refund in Russian rubles. Our crisis has made us extra-resourceful"
As for where the whole is going. The safe money seems to be on Russia buying a large chunk of Belarus wholesale. But there may yet be many surprises along the way...

Sunday, May 29, 2011

Moscow tops billionaire city list

The new billionaires per city Forbes ranking is out with Moscow leading the list and relegating the long-time champion, New York, to a second place. The new podium is: Moscow - 79; New York - 59; London - 41.

This is part of the general trend which sees ever more millionaires and billionaires sprouting up in the emerging economies (at the forefront of this movement, the BRIC nations produced some 108 new billionaires this year). But the ranking itself does truly reflect the situation of the respective cities. For one thing the methodology is somewhat shady. Forbes counts the number of billionaires in the respective cities proper, which means that Beverly Hills residents are not part of LA.

Second, many if not most of those "international" magnates still have secondary (or even primary) residences in London and New York. Their kids go to school there. Their wives shop there. They have investments and bank accounts there. Without those pieds-a-terre in the West their lifestyles would suffer considerably. Indeed, the importance of London for Russian oligarchs is widely underestimated, which is precisely why travel bans can be so effective a foreign policy tool.

The big question, however, is how this will affect foreign policy. Though every Sovietologist or Russia expert has his or her own theory, the truth is that they often fail to foresee any of the big changes in this country's direction. I do not purport to have this secret knowledge - my point is that Russia's foreign policy (and indeed domestic policy, for that matter), is somewhat mercurial.

One of the most interesting pieces of insight on this topic was presented a while back Anne Applebaum, who remarked that the pace and tone of the country's internal dynamics are set to the rhythm of the price of oil. The theory holds pretty damn well, and not just for internal issues - Russia invaded Georgia when oil was at a high of 91$ a barrel.

To a certain extent this is natural: whenever any person or entity is in a position of strength they tend to be tougher in their relations with others. But this goes a bit further than that. Russia has been lagging when it comes to reform at least since the Tsarist times. Moreover, its messianic streak and need of protecting its vast borders through endless expansion have inflicted great calamities on its neighbors more than once.

Not that the connection is direct - the billionaires now living in Russia have little interest in re-invading Georgia or seizing Eastern Ukraine. But their sheer number is a sign of the current economic power that Russia wields, and that the world, particularly a bustling Asia, are hungry for the raw materials and semi-finished products it provides - oil, gas, steel, coal, fertilizer etc. The ensuing confidence may very well put an and to the half-hearted anti-corruption and modernization program that Pres. Medvedev has embarked upon (which is badly needed; the road from Moscow to Sochi, future Olympic city, costs so much that it may be as well made of a nine-inch layer of foie gras; other outrageous examples can be found in here (New Yorker Navalny interview) - my personal favorite are the fur coats for psychiatric patients). Moreover, it goes to show that the immense gap between the dearth that is much of Russia and a swaggering Moscow, is as big as ever.

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Gentrification in the Uzupio Republic

The recent May break presented me with the long-awaited opportunity to visit the famed city of Vilnius -- Jerusalem of the North, lost child of the Polish Second Republic, shopping mall for Belarusian oligarchs.

Vilnius Old Town, the prime tourist destination, is indeed beautiful, and truly deserves its UNESCO World Heritage status. But what attracted me was the self-proclaimed Uzupis Republic, a run-down bohemian district of artists, prostitutes and hobos -- a winning cultural combination if there ever was one.

Somewhat similar to Belgrad's Skadarlija, it nonetheless goes further than the typical bohemian quarter, having proclaimed its own mock-constitution, and celebrating its independence on various occasions, mostly April Fool's day.

Thus, I was curious to see how real it was. In my experience, areas that are advertised as bohemian on official websites tend to be hollowed out husks of their former selves, nicely stuffed and placed on a tourist-friendly counter, with a guide in 17 different languages. In the best of cases they "suffer" from intense gentrification. This process can easily be seen throughout Central Europe, from Berlin to Budapest. Not that its all bad -- the areas in question are usually nicely renovated in the process, and they don't necessarily lose all their local flavor.

In this sense Uzupio is no exception. The artistic side of the quarter is perhaps over-marketed, but the quarter still has a few years in it before it becomes completely artificial, though the process is well on its way (as evidenced by the constant stream of BMWs and Lexuses making its way through the district). Entering the area through the main bridge is perhaps misleading -- you have to see the back streets to see what is really going on.

Enjoy the photos!


One of the less-used bridges over the Vilnia River, separating Uzupio from the Old Town
Side entrance to Uzupio




The main streets maintain the "run-down charm" from the front...
...but are modern from behind
Further up the street


Classic Uzupio







Main entrance bridge







Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Shakhtar Donetsk turns 75

You have to admit, they sure know how to put on a show. That, and the fact that Shakhtar Donetsk is not in want for funds.